Money in Iran: cash, rials, tomans and tourist cards

Live converter: how many tomans is your money worth today?

The most important practical fact about Iran: Visa and Mastercard do not work. ATMs won't take your card and you can't pay online with it. Plan your budget in cash before you land.

Bring euros or US dollars

• Bring clean, recent banknotes in euros or US dollars — old or torn notes get a worse rate or are refused.
• Bring more than you think you need. Running out of cash is the classic Iran travel problem, and getting money sent to you is complicated.
• Keep the money in two or three places, not all in one wallet.

Where to exchange

Use official exchange offices (sarafi) in city centres — Ferdowsi Street in Tehran, around Naqsh-e Jahan Square in Isfahan, and in every major city. They give the open-market rate, which is far better than the official bank rate. Avoid street changers. Your hostel can tell you the nearest trusted office and today's rate.

Rial or toman?

The official currency is the rial, but everybody talks in tomans: 1 toman = 10 rials. Prices on menus, in taxis and in shops are usually in tomans, sometimes with the last three zeros dropped ("200" can mean 200,000 tomans). If in doubt, ask "toman?" and check with the banknote in your hand.

The tourist card

Several companies sell prepaid tourist debit cards (for example Mah Card) that you top up with cash. They work in shops, restaurants and for some online bookings inside Iran, and you can get the leftover balance back before you fly out. They are a safe alternative to carrying a thick wad of banknotes.

What things cost

• A dorm bed in a hostel usually costs less than a meal in a European café.
• Long-distance VIP buses and trains are very cheap; domestic flights are affordable too.
• Entry tickets to major sites have a separate, higher price for foreigners.

Tips

Tipping is not compulsory, but rounding up in restaurants and taxis, or 5–10% for good service, is appreciated. Remember taarof: if a driver or shopkeeper says "it's nothing, be my guest", it's politeness — offer to pay two or three times.